Among the many stunning temples of Angkor, Banteay Srei stands apart as a true masterpiece of Khmer architecture. Often called “The Citadel of Women” or “The Jewel of Khmer Art,” this temple may be smaller in size than its Angkorian counterparts, but it makes a monumental impression with its intricate carvings and exquisite pink sandstone.
A Temple of Unparalleled Detail
Built in the 10th century and dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, Banteay Srei is unique in many ways. It was not commissioned by a king, but by a Brahmin scholar named Yajnavaraha, a spiritual advisor to King Rajendravarman II. This makes it one of the few temples from the Angkor period not built by royal decree.
The temple’s name, Banteay Srei, means “Citadel of Beauty” or “Citadel of Women,” believed to reference either the delicate style of its carvings or the possibility that it was once maintained by women.
The Art of Carving in Stone
What truly sets Banteay Srei apart is its extraordinary craftsmanship. Carved from rose-pink sandstone, the temple features some of the finest and most detailed reliefs in all of Cambodia. The walls, lintels, and pediments are adorned with intricate depictions of scenes from Hindu mythology, floral patterns, and elegant celestial dancers.
These carvings are so delicate that many art historians believe they could only have been made by the hands of master artisans, possibly even women—hence its poetic nickname.
Notable scenes include:
- Ravana shaking Mount Kailasa
- The duel between Vali and Sugriva from the Ramayana
- Shiva dancing in the cosmic circle of fire
A Small Temple with Big Significance
Though compact in scale, Banteay Srei is meticulously designed. Its three central towers are arranged in a linear pattern, surrounded by a series of enclosures and moats that reflect classical Khmer temple layouts. Every inch of stone is richly decorated, making it a temple best appreciated up close.
The temple’s preservation and relatively good condition can be attributed to its high-quality sandstone and early conservation efforts. Banteay Srei was one of the first Angkor temples to undergo major restoration in the 20th century.
Getting There and Planning Your Visit
Located about 25 kilometers (16 miles) northeast of the main Angkor Wat complex, Banteay Srei is a popular half-day trip from Siem Reap. The drive through the Cambodian countryside adds to the experience, with rice fields, palm trees, and traditional villages lining the route.
Visitor Info:
- Location: Near Phnom Dei, about 25 km from Angkor Wat
- Entrance Fee: Included with the Angkor Pass
- Opening Hours: 7:30 AM – 5:30 PM
- Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon for softer light and fewer crowds
Tips for Visitors
- Bring a camera with zoom to capture the fine details of the carvings.
- Combine your visit with a stop at the Cambodian Landmine Museum or Kbal Spean, a nearby site with riverbed carvings.
- Wear comfortable shoes and bring water, as the site can get hot during midday.
Why Banteay Srei Is a Must-See
If Angkor Wat impresses with its grandeur, Banteay Srei enchants with its artistry. It’s a place where stone becomes lace, where mythology meets masonry, and where the legacy of Khmer artisanship is displayed in its most refined form.
For lovers of art, history, and ancient cultures, Banteay Srei is not just a temple—it’s a treasure.
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